The Mission: A Guru Review

I know I may have mentioned my opinion of CNY “Mexican food” in a past article, but here’s one place that’s fighting the good fight. The Mission is by no means new in the Syracuse restaurant scene but I still wanted to write up a review of a recent lunch. And also, just so you know–The Mission isn’t just Mexican cuisine but food with a decidedly Pan-American influence. By definition, the items on the menu work with the traditional flavors of Mexico, Central and South America while catering to Americanized palates. Obviously you’ll find guacamole, salsas, nachos and all the Mexican standard but you might be surprised to find authentic mole (a delicious, complex dried chile and chocolate-based sauce), sprinklings of the feta-like traditional Cotija cheese on everything, plantains, chorizo, cerviche and other generally rare ingredients and items. When you look around town for the more authentic side of South American cuisine, The Mission is the only legitimate player.

I love the decor in The Mission–every time I eat there I notice something different. Statues of saints, Roman pillars, stained glass windows and a kitchen that appears to be part of a South American church all greet guests–along with the purple ceiling. A large, stylized bar (mojitos are usually pretty good), warm lighting and adobe tone walls make The Mission a very unique and interesting space. This restaurant is extremely popular and somewhat limited on seating space, often resulting in waits if you’re planning on a late Friday or Saturday dinner. I’ve been there more than once on an hour wait. Lunch service can get pretty busy but service tends to be quick and without mishap. And now the food.

Just glancing at the menu makes my stomach growl. As I said much of it is standard fare like burritos and tacos, but Mission actually uses fresh, high-quality ingredients. The range of salsas–which I always end up ordering–is to die for. They make a fantastic pico de gallo which has a refreshing tomato, cilantro and onion flavor with just enough spice. For those of you who crave heat, they have a papaya habanero salsa that perfectly balances one of the hottest chilies with tropical fruit flavors. It’s a very unique item and just another reason why Mission is at the top of my list.

Most Syracuse and Central New York Mexican restaurants lack flavor, fresh ingredients and tend to drown everything in cheese. Based on my experience with various places in ‘Cuse (which will remain nameless–for now) you’d be better off spending your money at Taco Bell. Mission is one of only two places in the area that actually know what they’re doing–the rest are jokers. And what makes the biggest difference? Quality ingredients. Order your enchiladas with a side of black beans and you’ll actually want to eat them. One bite and you instantly realize that they aren’t canned, mushy or the filler garbage many try to pass off as edible. Topped with Cotija cheese with a perfect subtle salty and creamy flavor, Mission’s black beans side (or the delicious homemade re-fried beans) becomes a centerpiece. In anything you order, it’s the small details that Mission’s chefs pick up on. Taking a bite of enchiladas topped with queso blanco is a damn near religious experience. One last note. I consider myself a pretty good judge of guac–easily throwing aside the flavorless in favor of the real thing–but I’m addicted to Mission’s recipe (simplicity is key).

On a recent lunch I ordered chicken enchiladas. You get all the standard ingredients–corn tortillas rolled and stuffed with chicken and cheese before being layered with tart, spicy tomatillo sauce and covered with, yes–more cheese! You can’t beat a process like that, but even though they are cheese-heavy I’ve never been overwhelmed. A side of crema and one (or all) of the four homemade salsas balances it out. The tortillas are the real thing, with that coarse texture that’s oddly not easy to find around here. The richness of the cheese in concert with the shredded chicken, Spanish rice and tomatillo sauce is amazing–four ingredients, period. Order it, I know you’ll love it. I’ve never had a problem dispatching all three enchiladas but the plate is pretty sizable and all you really need for lunch. For an added flavor that you may be less familiar with, order the Pollo Mole enchiladas. Also if you’re a seafood addict and hear fish tacos as a special–by all means–order them. You’ll be happy you did.

A lunch for two was under $30 and we ended up with leftovers to go with food comas. I’m not sure I was able to get much done the rest of the day, but lunch at The Mission is worth it. I’m going with:

The Mission
304 East Onondaga Street, Syracuse (Directions)
Click here for hours
(315) 475-7344
Note: The Mission does not take reservations.

Syracuse Restaurant Reviews